The cliff of Momina skala

It is impressive ensemble of stiff colons consisted of volcanic rock similar to basalt. It is the only one volcanic rock suitable for climbing in Bulgaria. The cliff is located close to the village Shiroko pole at the coast of dam Studen kladenets. At the top of the hill are situated the remains of the medieval fortress Monyak. The climbing here is very adventurous and requires good skills of using traditional gear. The routes are not announced anywhere in the net, so you will do either first ascend, or climb occasionally some existed tour. But observing the most obvious and logical lines is very likely that there is already existed one. Some of the routes have tittles beneath, but don’t believe the pointed grades. During the climbing you will find separated pitons. By protecting yourself on them check first, if they are reliable and hammer, if needed and don’t take them with. They will lead you along the route. Rather place some your own gear, if you don’t thrust the piton. The climbing ethic for this rock prohibits placing of any kind of bolts. NO drilling. As it is non popular climbing crag check every step and hold. The rock is partly very brittle and breaking big stones is not impossible. The height is about 100m. Being on the rock you will have astonishing panorama toward dam next to. After getting on the top you have to find steep path south-west of the cliff, a gully between sections of the rock with a bit easy down climbing, which will lead you back to the bottom. This place is only for experienced climbers with knowledge for action in every kind of critical situation.

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